Tozeur, Gateway to Tunisia’s Oasis Region

BY VICTORIA SCHNEPS-YUNIS

Thursday, May 28, 2009 11:39 AM EDT

After an unusual rainstorm in Tozeur, the city where we spent two nights, the morning was brisk and chilly, our first “cold” day in Tunisia.

Tozeur was our home base to explore what is called The Oasis Region. The area has 200 water springs that nourish thousands of palm trees. They produce 100 different varieties of dates. You can’t visit without enjoying one of their best produce – dates -- the best you’ll ever eat!

An hour-long morning drive took us to the phosphate mining town of Metlaoui. It’s developing into a popular tourist stop. We took a two-hour train ride on the “Red Lizard” through the Atlas Mountains and Seldja Gorge, which is a miniature Grand Canyon.

The renovated train, built in 1910 for the Ottoman ruler Berj of Tunis to go from the capital to his summer palace, was our transportation through some spectacular scenery. Fortunately, we got to the train early enough to get a seat in the only club car in the five car long train. There are no reserved seats, and I was grateful to our guide Moez that he found seats for us.

Only 45 minutes away was our lunch destination, the beautiful Hotel Tamerza Plaza, a 4-star facility built facing an oasis with majestic mountains behind. Interestingly, the hotel created a restaurant just for the tourist buses so as not to disturb their guests. Our prearranged meal of chopped salads and a bowl of stewed chicken with peppers, tomatoes and potatoes in a tasty sauce hit the spot. To finish the meal we had an unusual date mousse. I was impressed that the hotel, appearing to be in the middle of nowhere, has a following that uses the world-class spa and pool as a getaway from the world. I’d go back … but we were off to our next destination – the Oases Mides with its spectacular canyon and gorges.

The site was used for filming “The English Patient.” It stopped me in my tracks as I walked down to see the shimmering waterfall; I just sat down and took in the unexpected dramatic beauty of the falls, the canyon walls and crevices.

Our last stop of the day was the Dar Cheraiat Museum housed in an extravagant reproduction of an old palace. It has attractions for children too.

Our hotel, Ksar Rouge, had rooms spread out so far it seemed we walked miles up and down stairways to find ours. The city offers a wide choice of hotels in many price ranges, but I don’t recommend ours. The best thing I can say about it was the location near many sites.