Buddy’s: a belly’s best friend

BY VICTOR G. MIMONI

Thursday, November 12, 2009 4:56 PM EST

If you want a taste of what Kosher delicatessen was like “back in the day” on the lower East Side, just get over to Bayside and make friends with Mike and the staff at Buddy’s Kosher Deli.

As soon as you step through the door, the long deli case tempts you with the various potato salads and pancakes, chicken and turkey, chicken liver pate, tuna and vegetable salads that they serve up in generous portions.

Then there’s the mama’s kitchen aroma of soups and meats, and the briny, garlic high note from the pickles you can’t resist.

Mike, the owner, took over the operation several years ago as a young man. “The delis are fading away because the hours are just too tough for the old-timers. I’m keeping the tradition.”

Tradition is key at Buddy’s. In deference to higher authority, the letter of Rabbinical approval is more prominently displayed than the city’s health certificates.

The chicken soup comes with either Matzo ball or very hearty Kreplach. I had the mushroom barley, and after passing tastes around, all the soups are first rate.

Longing for a knish? Was that square or round; Kasha, broccoli or spinach; meat, potato or sweet potato? Coming right up. Kasha Varnishkas? Of course. Stuffed cabbage or derma? Got both.

We tried the brisket and the roast beef and, of course, a pastrami on rye. The sandwich was proudly piled high with peppery smoked meat on the dense but soft bread. The meats were moist and delicious, not fatty or too salty, and decidedly not steam table drowning victims.

The servings, including various sides of fries, Cole slaw and (what else?) pickles, would do any Jewish grandma proud.

“The portions are too big, but, better people should go home with a doggie bag than go home a little hungry,” Mike said, sounding all the more like an old deli-man.

Even three guys with healthy appetites couldn’t make a dent in the selection, so Mike sent over tastes of some other offerings; the latkes are golden and delicious; meatballs are tasty and good, the tongue has just a little salt and the sliced turkey breast is whole breast, not loaf.

For the Hebrew National purist – the franks are grilled not boiled, so they have the bite and snap you want – and the bun tastes like bread, not cake.

But if you want cake, Buddy’s has it… chocolate, pineapple coconut and more, plus more traditional Hamantashen and Rugalach that are just love for the mouth.

Aside from the store, with its nostalgic wall art, Buddy’s is a find because Mike and the crew can cater anything from a simple party to a full-course Thanksgiving Dinner that your guests will never forget.

He has outstanding package deals for all occasions or can customize your order.

So, if you’re hungry for good, solid, old-time, old-neighborhood food right here in Queens, you should go to Buddy’s Kosher Deli.

Sit. Eat. Smile.

Buddy’s Kosher Deli

Restaurant & Caterers

215-01 73rd Avenue

Bayside, NY 11364

Phone: 718-631-2110

Fax: 718-631-2956

Open seven days from 9:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Call in order for fast pickup

Free delivery, $15 minimum

No credit cards accepted (at this time)

Metered parking on street

THE QUEENS COURIER/Photo by Victor G. Mimoni
The case at Buddy’s is a showplace for the Kosher deli lover, tempting the eye while reassuring of the quality here.